The Kilimanjaro Blog

To the top and back

2008-03-26T19:26:00.000-07:00

Unfortunately I haven’t even had a chance to thank you all for being so supportive and wishing us well. As you could tell from Lee’s post, WE MADE IT TO THE TOP OF KILIMANJARO!!! What an amazing experience. I can go on and on….but before all that I want say- Thank you! … for goading me on (I could have died, you freaks!!!).

Thank you also for all those who donated to my cause. I raised $3,500 from this fundraiser! It will all go towards constructing a fish farm in Mali. I am exhilirated!

It has been a month since I am back, but I can’t stop thinking about Tanzania. Someone take me back….just one more time. So unfortunately for some, I will attempt at recreating all the good times (as and when time permits). The bad times will be exaggerated so that some of you don’t jump up and say, ’Hmmm. I could have done that too!’ Even Edmund Hillary didn't climb Kilimanjaro.

Read about our journey to the top

Just did it!

2008-02-21T08:17:00.000-08:00

For all of you waiting with bated breath... WE MADE IT!

All four of us reached the 'roof of Africa' on Saturday, 17 Feb at 8.45 a.m.

We're all in different stages of recovery right now... Updates when we reach home.

P.S. thanks for all your wishes, prayers, helpful tips and crossed fingers...

Bah! It takes all kinds!

2008-02-06T06:34:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, Leela’s gear arrived at my neighborhood REI and I took my 16 wheeler to pick it up. 23 new sparkly items were all there waiting to be stolen by me and replaced with my used ones.

Conversation with REI lady at checkout counter-

Lady: Wow, that’s a lot of stuff. Where are you guys off to?

Me: We are off to climb Kilimanjaro. (pause for the gasp…finding none, continue..)Oh all this is for a friend in Dubai. Dubai sucks when it comes to outdoor gear.

Lady: Wow!

Me (waiting to hear the usual adulations about out attempt to climb Kilimanjaro): Yes Yes. I’m so excited.

Lady (almost chocking): Wow! Dubai must be so fantastic! I would love to go to Dubai some day. It should be so beautiful.

Almost There!

2008-02-06T06:25:00.000-08:00

Five months of planning finally comes to an end! We embark on a journey of a lifetime day after tomorrow and I guess we have most of the items checked. We will get the yellow fever vaccination today. Two futile attempts at the Allegheny medical center doesn’t seem to have deterred our grit. Pi and I work in tandem and eventually get everything done. Things that matter to him don’t seem to bother me. I didn’t think this vaccination is all that important (especially after the first attempt) as it is recommended and not mandatory. But we are getting it nevertheless because he feels that of all the things that can go wrong, there will definitely be a sudden outbreak of yellow fever.

Take this Kenya situation for example. It's just horrible and for the sake of the country, I just wish the violence stops! Africa doesn't need this, not now, not ever. As adventurous as I am, getting torched by a crazed people was not in my wish list. Lee and I were freaking out, while Pi remained quite calm, unlike his normal cautious self. He felt it would be nice to hang out in a bus when fresh blood is flowing in the streets as we speak.

All week long, the situation in Kenya got worse and the pictures we saw in the news were harrowing. Our expectations that the clashes would subside was very wishful and things were getting more volatile. Even Nairobi seemed to be getting targeted and shops were closed. Travel advisory warnings shot up in every website and tourism in Kenya declined drastically. We were to fly into Nairobi, spend a night in a hotel and then take a bus out to Kilimanjaro.

For the past two days, we looked for alternatives. We got last minute flight tickets from Nairobi to Kilimanjaro, thanks to Leela’s high connections. She worked hard on the Kenyan officials, the airline industry, spoke to Kofi Annan and got some Sheiks from Dubai to promise us an armored vehicle if it came to that. Dubai Red Bull sponsored 40 cans for the team. The cans of Red Bull don’t really compliment the plot, but it’s a fact nevertheless.

Gear Fear

2008-01-13T19:52:00.000-08:00

I can see my mecca from my front door. Being at a spits throw away from REI, I have problems of the other kind. Leela’s gear problems are not half as bad as mine. The second REI announces sale, I am there in my pajamas and take a day off from work. Most times they don’t even have to have a sale. It’s an expensive pastime and involves a very agitated spouse. If they had frequent visitor points, I could have been part owner of REI by now. I buy remote controlled booties which are on sale for 30 bucks. The fact that this useless piece of gear will never make it to the mountain doesn’t seem to deter me. It’s better to be prepared than perish. This motto has seen me buying the third layer of gloves and some waterproof gloves that can talk underwater and for the money I spent on that, it better sing too.

Today I went to return the pair of gloves I bought yesterday. The fact that REI takes returns even after a year of use makes them highly attractive. I normally don’t return things that have encountered my nose drip, but today was an exception. After spending 3 agonizing hours in the store astutely calculating whether Seirus gloves (with a three layer weatherproof protection) is better than the Mountain Hardwear (windstopper glove) or the cheaper REI version (which claims all of the above for three dollars less), I bought the Seirus glove thinking that all my cold finger problems are solved. The fact that I even considered the Northface and OR brands has been omitted for reader sanity. I paid an arm for this and hence should have asked for a 50% discount. I decided to test this pair the next day. I went on a run outside dressed in layers (that I purchased for the climb) and my new Seirus gloves. It was cold, probably 30F. I was very comfortable in every region of my vast body except the darned fingers! I ran for thirty minutes going from feeling numb to extreme pain. When I was ready to see both my hands detach and fall to the ground, I decided to remove the gloves so Pi could return them without the blood stains. The phenomenon that followed was quite disturbing. My hands instantly came back to life and even felt warmer than before! ‘Hmmmm’, I say to myself. First I must return this and second I mustn’t tell Pi. He would ask me to return everything else and walk up the mountain naked. For his own good, I better not tell him.

So you see my predicament. I waste too much time, money and energy at REI. Today at the returns counter a new blonde employee asked, 'Anything wrong with these gloves ma'am?' I went on this tirade of explaining how these gloves act more of a cold trap and that the waterproof layer on top makes it exceedingly hard to be dexterous with a camera. I had become an unsolicited gear tester for REI. I went on to tell her that the Mountain Hardwear that I bought last week, though not as warm provided better warmth for its price. Her eyes quickly light up and she goes, 'Oh, you are the one who moved apartments to be near REI.’ Word spreads!

Gear and now

2008-01-13T07:20:00.000-08:00

Mountain of caravans, mountain of greatness, shining mountain - no one quite agrees on the real interpretation of 'Kilimanjaro'. But among the multiple meanings ascribed to it, my personal favourite is 'little white hill'.

Little, indeed.

But Kilimanjaro may well turn out to be a molehill as compared to the bigger problem I'm facing now - gear shopping. There are hardly any outdoor outfitters in Dubai, and the only two I've found - Columbia and Timberland - seem woefully inadequate.

Sample conversation:

Me: Do you have fleece jackets?

Salesman: Yes, ma'am. Right here... (points to a row of sleeveless jackets)

Me: Don't you have jackets with sleeves??

Salesman: Ok, look in the children's section. You might get your size.

If he didn't get advanced hypothermia from the look I gave him, I would be very surprised.

It doesn't get easier when it comes to shopping for the right pair of boots. "Walk down a ramp to check that your toes don't get crushed," suggested Alpha.

Not only were there no ramps in the store I went to, but even options were hard to come by. One pair of tenacious leather boots which would've shredded any toe that fell under it, and one pair of boots with Gore-tex fabric, which didn't inspire much confidence.

All's not lost though. It turns out there's a store right down my street which stocks ski gear at almost throwaway prices. I've never understood their business model, but I'm not complaining right now. I've managed to get a few pairs of gloves and socks, and a fleece jacket or two.

My final resort is to order gear from Alpha's friendly neighbourhood REI and get/request /implore/beseech Alpha to lug it to Nairobi.

Preparing for Kili !!

2008-01-10T12:01:00.000-08:00

About a month to go for the climb and I am brimming with excitement. Alpha and I watched the IMAX movie Kilimanjaro – To the roof of Africa last night. The movie has breathtaking sights of the mountain. Thought it could have had more substance on the actual challenges of climbing the mountain. They could have also said more about the locals and what Kilimanjaro means to them.

The biggest thing in our mind now is preparing physically for the grueling climb. We have been running and weight training but never sure how much is good enough. It is quite intimidating reading everything that is said about what it takes to make it to the top. We have scoured the online world for trip reports of all sorts. We found a few good ones, one of the nicest being this one by Malini Kaushik. She has a fantastic report on everything you want to know about climbing Kili. She actually helped settle the Diamox debate for us. Diamox is medication you can take to accelerate acclimatization but it comes with its side effects. You have to start taking it a few days before the climb for best results. There are numerous conflicting opinions but have decided to tolerate the multiple pee breaks that go with it and take Diamox. That seems to be the only way for us to survive the high altitudes.

In terms of logistics, I think we are fully prepared. We have certainly invested all we can for the gear stocking up on thermals, light-weight and mid-weight fleeces, day packs, etc. Finished all the travel and accommodation arrangements. We got the Tanzanian visa this week and now waiting for our Kenyan visa. But somebody, give a reliable prediction on how the situation is going to be. While planning the trip, we decided to fly into Nairobi and drive to Kilimanjaro. Now, we are faced with the political uncertainty in Kenya. Oh well !!!!!

Tying a shoelace is like Kilimanjaro, sometimes

2008-01-09T07:56:00.000-08:00

Also posted at Absolute Lee

Until a few months ago, Kilimanjaro was a personal goal. Having been out of the trekking circuit for close to 3 years, it was a challenge to get back in shape to be able to do a high-altitude trek. But once the training got underway, an opportunity was presented to do more than achieve a personal milestone. And that was to raise awareness and funding for a cause that's close to my heart - Rheumatoid Arthritis

As some of you might know, my sister, Preeti, had Rheumatoid Arthritis for 7 long and painful years, until she succumbed to complications arising out of the illness almost three years ago. She was 32 years old. The last few years of her life saw her struggle to maintain her familar smiling face even as her joints got swollen and stiff, and her normal stride turned into an awkward limp. Activities that most of us do without even a second thought like jumping aboard a train or sitting cross legged or even raising an arm, fell under the list of movements deemed 'next to impossible' for her. Once, I watched with mounting dismay as it took her a full five minutes to take off a T-shirt and by then, she was panting and staggering with the effort.

Rheumatoid Arthritis is like that. It's also chronic and indiscriminate, striking without any precedent. There's 7-year-old Mazhar*, I've come to know through the Emirates Arthritis Foundation, who's had Rheumatoid Arthritis for the past 2 years. Initially, when it took him almost an hour to get out of bed in the morning, his parents attributed it to laziness. It was only when he cried incessantly and complained of pain even when his mother hugged him, did they suspect something was amiss. Now, the 7-year old, with large, curious eyes, has to sit in the sidelines and watch as his friends play football. Some days it takes him an hour just to wear his shoes. He misses school frequently, and his parents fret that he's unusually moody and silent.

Dr. Humeira Badshah, a rheumatologist with the Emirates Arthritis Foundation asserts that there are treatments that can control the disease, enabling patients like Mazhar to lead a life that's as normal as possible. Most patients respond well to the new treatments, and in time are able to return to school or to their jobs. The main deterrent however, is the cost.

My goal is to raise Dhs. 40,000 (USD 11,000 approx.) for Mazhar's treatment. It's a steep figure, but then, at 19,340 feet, so is Kilimanjaro. In aspiring to one, I'm hoping this other goal will be accomplished as well.

So here's a earnest plea to all of you reading this - if you can contribute a small amount, any amount, for Mazhar's treatment, it would be a huge help. If you can pass on this appeal to family or friends, it would help even more.

You can contribute in cash, cheque or wire transfer. The team at Emirates Arthritis Foundation is also trying to set up an online payment option. Until then, if you would like to contribute, simply write to me - absoluteleela {at} gmail {dot} com. Or to Cathy Leibman, Director-Operations, Emirates Arthritis Foundation - cathy {at} arthritis {dot} ae

I look forward to your generous support for Mazhar. Because a 7-year deserves to be in the playground, not on the sidelines.

Gear List

2008-01-07T06:06:00.000-08:00

Hiking boots
Backpack (4000 cc)
Raincover for back pack
Daypack
Sleeping bag
Sleeping Pad
Hiking poles
Water bottle
Platypus
Drinking Tube

First Aid
Mole skin
Band-aid
Diamox
Anti-Malarial pills
Tylenol
Imodium
Zantac
Motrin
Bug Protection
Splints
Bandage
Prescription mendicine

Kitchen stuff
Plates/ bowls (light washable)
Water mug (reusable)

Clothes (avoid cotton)
Inner Garments
Inner Layers
Lightweight Microfleece
Midweight fleece
Outer Layer Windstopper fleece
Down Jacket with waterproof stuff sack
Lightweight tights
Midweight tights
Fleece Pants
Convertible Pants
Shorts
Rain Jacket
Rain Pants
Balaclava
Windstopper cap
Inner Glove Layer
Outer Glove layer
Socks
Gaiters
Bandana/ Towel
Hat/ Cap

Personal Hygiene
Tooth brush
Tooth paste - travel size
bio-degradable soap
Moisturiser/ Vasalene - travel size
Lip Balm
Deo - travel size
Toilet paper/ Wet Ones
Comb- travel size
Sunscreen

Safety/ navigation
Headlamp with batteries
Extra batteries for flashlight
Altimeter/GPS Unit

Misc.
Electrolytes
Water proof stuff sacs
Garbage bags
Zip-loc bags
Nylon cord/ Rope
Sun Glasses/Glasses
Camera
Sewing kit
Duct tape

Extra
Lighter Hiking Boots
Mittens
Camp shoes/sandals
Water Proof Socks
Space Blanket
Hand warmers/ Foot Warmers
Reading material
kitchen towels
Binoculars
Case for glasses
Cards
__________________________________________

We got all the gear shopping done this weekend. Since we do a lot of backpacking, we already had most of this list. We helped Nai (who drove from Philly) get his shopping done from scratch and I guess Pi and I ended up buying a lot of unnecessary things for ourselves. Outdoor stuff is expensive and rightfully so. The amount of research that goes into making sure you are comfortable in the harshest conditions needs to be considered. We have been accumulating gear ever since we were students and hence have had to upgrade from time to time. We have realized the importance of good gear in the unpredictable outdoors and hence would not recommend skimping. I remember, we had to think a lot before we dished out 100 dollars for a shoe. That was six years ago.

Today Nai just walks into REI, looks at a shoe he likes, asks us if it would work, tries it on and dumps it in his already loaded cart. All this without even looking at the price tag. He loads thousand dollars worth of gear in the trunk of his car and never looks back. The power of being able to afford made this weekend's shopping a breeze. In the past, I remember agonizing over every little purchase, going home and double checking if it was worth the buy, wearing it and parading in front of the mirror, getting a sense of excitement to be actually using it in backcountry, convincing myself it was OK to indulge and feeling a sense of achievement when it works during the final test. Though I can afford things now, I can't pay a price for that feeling.

All things considered, we'll be fine!

2008-01-04T10:23:00.000-08:00

AAAAAAAAAAAAAGggggggggggggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!! I just needed to get this out of my system. Oddly enough, the apprehension hasn’t subsided. The more I read about this climb, my heart runs faster than I can ever on that treadmill. Thanks to wonderful people who have done this before and possess the uncanny enthusiasm to document it all, I have gone from emotions of slight skepticism (electric ear muffs?) to high alarm (we need to carry portable heated toilets?!).

I had imagined unforeseen dangers, like the volcano becoming active all of a sudden and geologists finding my fossil a few years later, ‘Look fellow Geologist, the most primitive human! Look at this camera she is carrying… so outdated!’ Then of course you can’t discount the hazards of falling from 19,340 ft praying you land safely on your feet. But you happen to smoothly land into the open jaws of a lion waiting at the base of the mountain, ‘Alright cubs, open wider…the husband comes now. Grrroowwwl’ Next there is the killer cold that could potentially freeze your saliva before you could spit on yourself for even attempting this. Hypothermia, Fatigue, Delirium, Yellow Fever, Malaria, and Homesickness could be possible reasons for death too. By the way, homesick people can die too when they fall and get eaten by lions.

According to all the articles I have come across, I shouldn’t really bother with all that. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) is the biggest cause of death in Kilimanjaro and many high peaks around the world. Yes, you could be happily sauntering up the Volcano taking in the views and poof! you could drop dead because of a headache. AMS has been studied in detail and the only cure is to get back to sea level as quick as you can. You get pounding headaches, giddiness, nausea, short of breath and if you hadn’t figured already, a general feeling of lousiness. Acclimatization (spending a few extra days at higher altitudes getting used to low atmospheric pressure) helps tremendously and that is the reason why we are spending an extra day in the mountain. Recommended acclimatization period for any altitude greater than 9000ft is to sleep no more than 1000ft higher than your previous night’s camp, and to spend an extra night at every third camp. That is also the reason why we do not spend more than an hour at the summit, which is higher than the Everest Base Camp. I don’t think anyone can train for AMS other than smoking a few packs of cigars daily and hope your lungs get damaged enough not to tell the difference.

One problem I did not foresee is this recent Kenyan unrest. It’s really sad. We are hoping things do subside in a few days or Nairobi might be out of our agenda.

The Plan

2007-12-27T06:56:00.000-08:00

We will be taking the Machame (pronounced Ma-cha-may) route to climb the mountain. It’s not the easiest route, but it’s the most scenic and less populated. We will spend the next few days checking out the great migration in Southern Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Lake Manyara. We hope to spend some time with the local Masai warriors and ask them about the virtues of cow blood. Here’s our agenda. If you happen to be around, scream out. We’ll take a picture of you with your herd from our land-rover.

Feb 9 2008: Reach Nairobi, Kenya.

Feb 10: Bus ride to Arusha, Tanzania

Feb 11: Hit the mountain to Machame gate, after registration process start the hike to Machame Camp, 9,900ft

Feb 12: Shira, 12,600ft

Feb 13: Baranco, 12,850ft

Feb 14: Karanga Valley, 13,300ft

Feb 15: Barafu, 14,910ft

Feb 16: Summit, 19,340ft, then descend to Mweka 10,010ft

Feb 17: Mweka gate, transfer to Arusha

Feb 18: Drive to Lake Manyara, safari.

Feb 19: Drive to Southern Serengeti, game drives.

Feb 20: More game drives in the Southern Serengeti.

Feb 21: Another game drive in the Serengeti; then drive to Ngorongoro, with a visit to Masai Village.

Feb 22: Descend into the Crater for morning and afternoon game drives* in the crater; then drive back to Arusha; proceed to Kilimanjaro airport.

How the heck did Pi say yes!!

2007-12-22T07:54:00.000-08:00

one night, alpha innocently asked me to lay out the top ten things i'd like to do in my life. i jumped and said mt.kilimanjaro, wanting to sound cool and impress alpha. little did i know alpha was making our travel plans for the next 10 years and holding me to climb kili with her !! people who have seen me know - hiking doesnt come naturally to me and for me to get on this journey is a big big deal. i tried wriggling out - no vacation time, parents are visiting, and even its time to have kids but nothing worked. alpha is determined and so am i it seems............

The highest blogger meet in the world

2007-12-22T07:20:00.000-08:00

In the last four years that we’ve known each other (virtually, of course), Alpha and I have tried to meet up a few times. It’s a bit tricky getting the co-ordinates right when you’re on two different continents separated by a couple of oceans, but she was in Bombay once, and I was almost in Bangalore, another time. And then, last year, she planned Europe, while I considered Australia… It’s not a small world, after all.

Just when I was beginning to imagine a dotage blogger meet, the tectonic plates shifted somewhere, and our agendas and venues came together. I suggested Kilimanjaro, since it had been on my wishlist for a while. A mountain lover herself, she not only got fired up by the idea, but also got Pi and half of Pittsburgh interested. She then scouted around for tour operators, decided the route, sent off a flurry of mails, started raising funds for charity, packed and repacked her bags, started the blog, and if Pi tells me she’s already at the airport waiting for the flight due in February, I’d believe him.

Jokes aside, I totally credit Alpha for this trip coming together so far. I’ve had a lot on my mind the last few months to focus on this trip, and I’m grateful for Alpha’s determination. When you set out to reach the peak of the highest free-standing mountain in the world, it’s exactly that kind of focus you need. And hopefully, the rest of us will match up in the coming weeks.

If not, I've full faith that Alpha will sling us over a shoulder and saunter all the way to the top.

The Kili Team

2007-12-19T11:37:00.000-08:00

We are all set! We are definitely going through with this it looks like. Tickets booked, guides paid for, vacations granted, family members alerted to maximum insurance claims. No backing out. Four of us are embarking on this endevour for reasons unknown. Let me try conjuring up the reasons as I am not sure what level of contribution we are going to see from the rest of the lazy folks.

Leela- A world famous blogger. Living in Dubai, she needed a reason to use her sweater.

Pi- Being my husband is reason enough I guess.

Nai- He wants to impress his boss (who had climbed Kilimanjaro last year). Though Nai translates to 'dog' in Tamil, he isn't a real dog. He is a human who is known as Nai. Went to college with me.

Alpha- Of course, you all know...to eradicate hunger in Africa and bring self sufficiency to the poor communities.

Why I started this blog?

Leela suggested that we document every little whimper and whine to keep ourselves on track.
In case we were to perish, one of you could call FOX news and alert them to this blog and become rich.
To placate the anticipation of actually getting there
Getting the people in the group excited
Publicity stunt
Serious joblessness
Another venue to be seen at

Watch out for this space. I bet you'll see some interesting material from the other team members!